Tuesday, 27 October 2015

What is colour?

The Colour wheel with Make-up

Primary Colours; These are the three colours that are key to the colour wheel as they cannot be made from any other colour and these colours are Red, Blue and Yellow.


Secondary Colours: These colours are created when you mix an equal amount of the primary colours together e.g. purple, green and orange.


In this lesson we learnt about what colours are and how they can range in the industry of make-up. There where more main colours and terms of mixtures of colours/tones that are used within make-up, these are;
-Monochromatic: which is a variation of the a mix of the same colours.
-Analogous: Colours that are next to each other or overlap on the colour wheel.
-Complementary: Colours that are opposite ends of the colour wheel which complement each other.
-Achromatic: either Black or White colour/Grey scale
-Neutral: Plain neutral shades of colour. 

Colour Looks:

Then we were assigned to try the Monochromatic look as a make-up design and design, then do our own design. I gave two attempts of this look as my first look was not as fully plans as I would have liked. The top two images are the before image and I wanted to attempt a dramatic look using shades of purples as it had to be shades of the same colours. I think my colours did match each other but I felt that it did not really stand out on the skin and it looked quite rushed. To improve on this first attempt I re-planned another look and re-did  the whole look to improve on the look as I new I could do better.

Second Monochromatic look:

I decided to re-design my second Monochromatic look and made it up of variations of oranges. Instead of having a foundation base I went with a white based skin which which also contract with the orange variations and really make the colours stand out. I have faded the colours with hints of yellow which adds definition and a realness to the look. I really think with a more structured plan look this made my second attempt far more positive then the first look. 



Then after I did two other face charts for the other looks of Analogous which are when the colours on the colour wheel are next to each other and also a Complementary look which are colours at the opposite end of each other. 

Products:
- white and yellow super colour 
- foundation brush 
- yellow and orange eye shadow 
- contour brush 
- Matt primer 
- angled brush 
- powder 
- powder puff 

Analogous:





Complementary:

By Amelia Richmond-knight

Saturday, 24 October 2015

National Portrait Gallery

National Portrait Gallery

Today I traveled to London to view the National Portrait Gallery to obverse the 16th Century art of the Elizabethan era. When I got to the gallery I started to analyses the paintings too really get an idea of the traditional dress, make-up and hair that was not only 'Queen Elizabeth 1st'  but other famous Tudor men and women. I was there to study these paintings and to gather inspiration to be able to create my own modern day Elizabethan look with elements of traditional looks. 



All the paintings I saw where very beautiful and an image of Henry the eighth really caught my eye as it portrayed a very strong and powerful emotion. In the image the Kings legs are wide apart and he is stood tall and proud, therefore to me portraying the image of a powerful leader which he was. The image also him wearing an abundance of gems and jewelry which may represent the fact that he was a very wealthy man which he would want to show off in his painting which is further highlighted by him wearing the colour gold. Gold was a rich mans colour and also means success, triumph and achievement. In this painting to the left I found it very interesting because most painting of the wealthy women they had bright bold colours in their clothing to represent them as powerful and strong women. Instead in this painting the colours are much more pale and subtle. This makes the mood of the image appear more calm and delicate which is maybe which it is trying to portray. Her face is framed by a beautiful lace collar which again is very delicate and this is further shown with the pearl decorated in her hair. Queen Elizabeth 1st would wear pearls in her paintings to show her virginity as pearls symbolize the idea of purity and therefore by having pearls is to inform people that their bodies are pure. I have analysed that a lot of the women when they are older where their hair up on top of their heads, I believe this again is to represent them being seen as more mature because the Tudor women would only have her hair down at special events like a wedding or coronation to show them being young and pure to show again their virginity.  


 
 In this painting of the young 'Queen Elizabeth 1st' we can see that the point I made about wearing their hair down is represented in this painting as she was a young women here at her coronation. We can also see the style of painting has changed and that to some people they may not like this painting as it look more like an unrealistic image of the Queen. The face of the new Queen is very pale in this image to show her as a wealthy figure because her pale completion shows she is not of working class. I really like this image as she appears the most natural in this image as this is her at the beginning of her ruin therefore in other painting you can see how she has adapted to the role of being a true leader of England even only through her looks.  


 Later, on that day after analyzing and collecting helpful images and information we went around London and to look around the Illamaqua and MAC stores which where amazing as I could collect and buy more make-up for my kits to help with my project and to get some for MYSELF, of course. Overall, the day out was very useful to help with my project and by looking into the background to these image I hope I can really capture the true image of the Elizabethan image in my modern look. 

By Amelia Richmond-Knight 











   

Thursday, 22 October 2015

Elizabethan:Introduction

Elizabethan:Introduction

This semester our first project is based around the 'Elizabethan' style. We will be looking at main high figures like 'Queen Elizabeth 1st' and how she looked during this time period and how we can study people like her to gather a greater understand of the fashion looks in the 16th century. Therefore throughout this project we will be taught how to plan, practice and create our own modern day Elizabethan looks made up with practice of the traditional look. I know that within this era make-up was a new aspect of a lot of women lives but tends to be for the richer women as it was more expensive due the it being a new phase of this time. White paste make-up was most commonly used by the wealthy women, it was used to hide ageing, spots, illnesses which in some cases relates to today's products. The make-up was also used to further express wealth not only because it was expensive.The reason women wanted a pale completion was too show that you were not of working class and you had other people to do these jobs for you. For example the working class women would develop a tan when working outside so by the wealthy women having a pale completion this symbolized to others that they could afford the 'help'.



  This video (1:17- 1:40) from these points show you the basic look of the Elizabethan era and is interesting of how different aspects of the looks have changed other time when you compare it to today. In the video it also shows that women would have there hairline very far back on their head. This was to make the forehead appear a lot bigger and larger than it actually was to represent the person to have a bigger brain. It was seen as being more attractive to be an intelligent women. It was not only having parting that was far back that was in fashion in the Tudor times but long hair. The long hair would usually be kept up under headdresses this was seen as concealing the women beauty but only on special occasions would they where their hair down e.g. coronations or weddings. Like 'Queen Elizabeth 1st' who wore her hair down on her coronation which on a young lady of this era shown her as a virgin. These facts are further shown on this link and explain more hair fashion for men and women of the Elizabethan era.

I am really looking forward to learning more about this era as it is one of my favourite times in history as it is so fascinating and interesting to study. It will be very interesting also to apply all the knowledge I will learn about the History of hair and make-up in this era and apply it to practical work. I hope to achieve with hard work the best work I can with the skills that I will gain in this topic and hopefully achieve the best modern Elizabethan look to the best of my ability.

By Amelia Richmond-Knight

Wednesday, 21 October 2015

Do People Still Have Status Symbols in Photos???

Do People Still Have Status Symbols in Photos???

In this lesson we started off by analyzing photos of 'Queen Elizabeth 1st' by questioning the objects that she had in her paintings and what there meanings and purpose were. For example in this painting called 'The Armada Potrait of Elizabeth 1st' - (1588) of 'Queen Elizabeth 1st' she has many objects shown and surrounding her. Firstly her hand is placed on a globe representing her power and highlighting the control she had over the world, symbolising as if she had the world in her hand like a Godly figure. Her crown is in her bakcground which is an obvious symbol of money and wealth which she would want to portray to her people as well she  has lots of peals around her neck which was to show her purity. In purity in the image of her as being known as the 'Virgin Queen' as she did not need a male figure in her life as she was a powerful, independent women which was further highlighted by the other object previously mentioned.  She would showed these pearls in many paintings to exaggerate this point to the viewer. The two painting in her background are showing the defeat Elizabeth had to the Spanish in the 'Spanish Armada' and due to their failure of this attack this enhanced the Queen's popularity with her people making it an iconic event in history which should wanted people to remember, hence why should would disply them in her portraits. Lastly, in this portrait we can see that the image is mainly made up of reds and golds. Golds representing the idea and symbolism of power and wealth and Red symbolising courage and confidence which the finally having all these aspects in one portrait represents 'Queen Elizabeth 1st' as a very powerful, confidence and independent leader. 

We then questioned ourselves about whether people 'still have status symbols in photos' today. I believe that people do as they are shown in everyday life such as celebrities in magazines, social media, newspapers etc. We then went further to discuss that in the Elizabethan era symbols were used more to show what they had or who they represented as most people could not read or write. Therefore it was shown through symbols, compare to modern day when objects are mainly used in images to show off branding etc. For example in this photo of the famous pop singer 'Justin Beiber' he is stood in front of an expensive car, lether jacket and expencive jewllery showing off his wealth. This is also similar to 'Queen Elizabeth 1st' painting as they are both showing off their wealth to others that may not be able to afford what they can. These kind of images are used to show wealth but a lot of the time in modern day images like these are used to advertise products that are shown with celbrities to sell them to the genral public.




I found this image of the singer/actress 'Demi Lovato' posing for 'Teen Vogue' sitting amounts flowers in a old town bedroom. The picture is of the younger Demi which shows her as a innocent girl looking very sweet because she is surrounded by harmless and innocent objects. The filter of the image is mainly made up of pastel colours, creating a soft warm feel to the photo which is also portrayed through her character e.g. because of the way she is sat and her clothing. Her clothing shows her not wearing any bold colours but instead a white dress which represents purity and inncocence the colour of prefection as if she has no faults. The magazine would want her to appear faultless as this would attract their target auidnece as most teen girls want to have that 'perfect image'. With having her hair behind her head this highlights this point further but also shows her as being simple/natural like the flowers in the image, implying her natural beauty. 


Referring to all these images I then attempted to create an image of my own that would represent me using objects that I own. I booked out a studio with a group from my course and we set up the lighting and background that I needed for my shoot, which we did experience a couple of technical problems but with attempts figured the layout. With my portrait I wanted to create an image that would define me as a person, so I did some research to find myself some inspiration and found this picture of the famous Youtuber 'Zoe Sugg' and thought it would work perfectly as the image really shows off the hair which I believe is a very key element to me and my look, plus it made it more personal as I love 'Youtube'. I then as in 'Zoe's' image she places flowers in her hair but I thought that I would place objects that represent me into my hair that I owned. I started by having make-up and brushes which shows my love and passion for make-up which is why I am on this course. The pencils represent my other creative side of arts, crafts and my love for drawing. The Buda highlights my Indie fashion style but also is to show my love for culture as I would love to travel one day. Lastly, the flowers and festival bands are to show my passion for music and festivals as I have been to a couple and now is a big aspect of my life. On the other hand, the flowers also portrays my personalitiy as flowers are seen as calm and gentle but also have a vibrance to them. 



By Amelia Richmond-Knight

‘Elizabeth’- Film Review

‘Elizabeth’- Film Review

‘Elizabeth’ was directed by Kapur Shekhar and released in 1998 it tells the story of Queen Elizabeth’s reign over England. In the film we are shown the journey from beginning to end of her great challenges from a young woman, with not only her changing in personality but in looks. In the beginning of the movie we see Elizabeth as a very content young lady with long auburn locks, with little plaits or any hair pieces and in simple dress but as the film progresses and she becomes more powerful the look begins to form into something more royal and regal. From her coronation she has a simple plain hairstyle with a plain face and just the clothing of her royal garments and her crown which represents the start of her journey. The one iconic element to her look is her hair which really resembles her change of character as she goes from having her hair completely down in the introduction, then to half up half down hair styles to the ending when she shaves her head and wears glamorous Tudor wigs.

In the last scene of the film Queen Elizabeth has all her hair cut off which is supposedly to be represented like the virgin Mary which she was also classed as the virgin Queen due to her never marrying to another man. Some believe she never married due political reasons being if she married an Englishman this could cause problems with foreign countries or if she married a foreign man she could cause disputes in that country, therefore she decided to stay as the virgin queen. Even announcing that she was ‘Married to England’ meaning she was a woman of power to protect her country and nothing more. The white make-up on her face use to represent higher class in the 16th century as only wealthy women could afford it and women of lower class worked outside meaning that they would develop suntans therefore the paler you where the richer you where portrayed. With the link shown below its states that some information was not stated correct in the film as she wore the white make-up later then her reign as she developed small-pocks later on in life so the use of the heavy make-up was used to cover these.

By Amelia Richmond-Knight 
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2031177/Elizabeth-I-Virgin-Queen-She-right-royal-minx.html

Friday, 16 October 2015

Make-up: How to Apply Foundation

Make-up: How to Apply Foundation

When applying Foundation we first set up all the kit out on the counter and I had my client take all their make-up off and put on moisturizer on the skin ready for prep for the foundation. First, I then prep the skin with a primer from Illamasqua which helps with dry skin which my client had. When applying the foundation we first had to test which shade of foundation would match the clients skin type. By doing this I used the foundation palette from Kryolan and scooped a little from the shades I thought would match her skin colour and then put it onto the back off my clean hand and applied it onto the skin with a flat foundation brush. Then When applying the concealer you do the same process as the foundation by scooping out and testing the concealer on the clients skin, also when choosing the right shade of concealer it should always be either one or two shades lighter then the foundation. Then to apply to the skin I used a small flat brush but remember to always be careful near peoples eyes. Then with the Kabuki brush from Kryolan brush in all the foundation and concealer to get away any streaks or lines on the skin. Then lastly, using the Illamasqua setting powder press it lightly into the skin using a make-up sponge and then dust of any excess with a brush.

Products:
- powder puff
- concealer pallet
- kabuki brush
- matt primer
- foundation pallet
-flat foundation brush
- flat concealer brush



By Amelia Richmond-Knight

Tuesday, 13 October 2015

The process of transformation through Make-Up

The process of transformation through Make-Up

The ideal Tudor women wanted to have a pale completion and rues cheeks which were caused by staying inside and not working in the sun like the lower class showing they were rich because make-up was expensive and they never had to work because they had other people to do that for them. There were many cosmetics in the Tudor times and Queen Elizabeth 1st always wanted to look her best as she was the Queen of England and to show she was a powerful, independent women. This further showed off her glowing white completion with outfits e.g. she wore big ruffs around her neck which would almost act as reflects of light which made her face appear even more white/glowing. Even though make-up was frowned upon by Preast such as 'Philip Stubbes'(1585) as he says its not a natural aspect and it hides a person emotions or even illnesses, which did relate to Queen Elizabeth as she wore her white make-up to cover up her scares from small pocks.

What Ingredients were used in Tudor Cosmetics?:

1. The white face completion was made with powered white chalk or white lead, mixed with whites of an egg and vinegar. This created a smooth finish to the skin and the women who wore it could not laugh or smile much as the skin would crack.

2. Urine was also considered good for the complexion, some used to try puppies urine which they believed that it would soften the skin and keep it fresh.

3. To achieve rue/red blushed cheeks they would add red colourings to white lead or sometimes have this Spanish paper that was bought dyed red and they would rub into their cheeks.

4. To colour the lips they would either used juice from red berry fruits or cochineal (crush beetles).



In my opinion these cosmetic show how far the we have come in the cosmetic industry but then this recipes still show how we started off and without these original ideas we may not have the same ideas and products today. For example cochineal is still used in a lot of make-up products today so even from the !6th century to 2015 we still used some of the same ideas. But the reasons for not using a lot of these products now is due the side affect they had on the people at that time e.g. the white foundation had lead in it which is highly poisoness to the skin.

By Amelia Richmond-Knight


The fundamentals of make-up and hair design: white paint

The Fundamentals of Make-up and Hair Design: White Paint 




In this lesson we were testing and trying out all three white skin based products from; 'Illamasqua' and 'Charles Fox'. We were testing each different product over the whole face to; test the application process, how it sat on the skin, if it was easy to blend, if you could layer the product easily etc, which we tried to answer these question and more by doing this practice so we would know what product we may use for our Elizabethan look. Queen Elizabeth the first would wear a white base on her face due to show importance of wealth as in the Elizabethan times the richer women would mainly stay inside while the common working women would stay out working in the sun causing her to tan. So by the rich having very pale skin (white) this would represent she was rich therefore the paler the skin the richer you were, also as make-up was expensive and most could not afford it.



'Charles Fox' (Kryolan)-Supracolor:

 This white colour is a grease based product meaning that it does
 not need anything added too it. The grease paint was applied with a premium flat foundation brush and even when not using a lot of the product it gave quite a thick but even application to the face. It was also considered very easy to build up on the colour meaning we could build/pack the product on easily without creating a cakey affect to the look. We found by adding more to certain areas like your T-zone you could create highlights even with the same colour. But the only down side to this product was that it appeared to have a blue/grey undertone to it.



















'Charles Fox' (Kryolan)- Aquacolor:


when applying the 'Aquacolor' product I used the same flat brush but had to add water to activate the colour. when applying the colour to the face a lot of water is not needed but it does give a streaky appearance on the models face making it hard to blend as it drys fast and very hard. The colour itself was not very bold compared with the grease paint but this colour could be used if you wanted to achieve a lighter coverage to your Elizabethan look. I then further asked the client what the product felt like on the skin and she comment that it dry very fast before the application was finished and felt like it cracked on the skin.   


Illamasqua - 'Skin base Foundation(white)':

This product can be mixed with normal foundations if they are needed to be made lighter for certain colours if you don't have the right colour match. However it can be used on its own as a white base like the other two products, when applying them I did find that the product was quite streaky and thin as a layer when first put on. It also was not as bright or thick as the others two I would not used this product on its own but only as a mixer as I believe that is what it is best for.                                               



 By Amelia Richmond-Knight


Friday, 9 October 2015

The Fundamentals of Make-up and Hair Design: Cleaning and Toning

The Fundamentals of Make-up and Hair Design: Cleaning and Toning


In this lesson we were learning the importance of keeping your skin/clients skins clean and fresh in order to precede any form of make-up look and how to approach doing this process on a client in the future. Firstly, we were told some basic rules that we should know for ourselves when doing this process and how to look in this line of work as a make-up artist. It consists of; two section clips (to clip the hair back), Hair apron, no wrist bands, have to tie our hair back, clean hands (always inform your customer your washing your hand before touching their face), have mirror lights on and chose a sensitive moisturizer.




  1.Firstly, after you are prepped with washing your hands put on the hair apron onto your client and then clips any hair back with section clips. (tip: ask the client if they have sensitive skin and also if they were contact lenses to take extra care if they do). 

  2.Then clean their face with a cleanser by putting a pea size amount onto a cotton pad and wipe it off your clients face in small circular moments – (tips; always ask your client if they wish to take of their eye make-up themselves before doing it yourself).

  3.Then same again but with toner put a generous amount of toner onto a cotton pad and wipe of the make-up of your client in a soft circular movement.

  4.When the face is clean gently rub moisturizer into the clients face but be cautious of the eyes.

  5.Then prep the face with a primer in the same way you put the moisturizer on.


  6.Lastly, always keep your station clean and bin all cotton pads and put away products. 

    Consultation Notes:


-  - After talking to my client I found out that my client was only slightly sensitive to some of Charles fox foundations as we tested it on her skin and found that it became red. This made my client and me aware that we had to use other form of foundation products that would not react with her skin. 

- - My client also did not wear contact lenses which meant that her eye would be unlikely to react with any products or airborne products e.g. powder. But to keep my client happy and be professional I made sure i was careful around the eyes.

-  - I ask my client about her skin type and whether it was dry, sensitive or greasy. I asked my client and she stated that the upper bridge of her nose and the top of the forehead wear dry. Therefore after cleaning and toning this particular clients skin I would make sure that I would moisturizer this area, so not too keep it dry. 

- - Finally, I asked my client about what undertones does she have in her skin and my client has a yellow undertone to her skin which I will take into mind when applying foundation or concealer. Therefore when applying these products to the skin I will test it at the back of the neck to make sure the colour matches the skin tone.  









        By Amelia Richmond-Knight



Saturday, 3 October 2015

Hair and Skin diseases (Contagious/Non-Contagious)

Non-Contagious/Contagious Hair and Skin Diseases

As a Make-up and Hair design student I need to know when for example working with a client what signs to look out for in skin and hair. This is very important to know what is contagious and what is not as I could inform the client but also if I am aware know how to deal with the situation when working with them. In this blog I have researched contagious and non-contagious skin and hair diseases to make myself more aware of them and which one to look out for when working. I know there are many more then what I have written but this blog is to show a couple that could be possible to see when in this line of work.

CONTAGIOUS HAIR DISEASES:



TINEA CAPITIS (or SCALP RINGWORM):

What is Tinea Capitis?- It is an infection in the scalp hair with a type of fungus which is a tiny microscopic organism that lives on the dead tissue of the hair, nails and outer skin. It is a contagious disease that thrives in crowded living conditions and warm/damp environments therefore can be caught through hair brushing, clothing, towels and seats. When looking out for symptoms look for itching on the scalp, redness, scaling of the scalp (like dandruff) and can cause hair loss or balding in the infected areas. If the disease has become more severe it can cause swelling or even pus but in children can cause swelling glands.

PEDICULUS CAPITIS (HEAD-LICE):
What is Pediculus Capitis?- Head lice are small wingless insects that live in the scalp by sucking blood. They lay eggs in the hair which looks like tiny white specks (nits) and lay glued to the base of the hairs. The symptoms of Pediculus Capitis to look for are causes of itching on the scalp which can be checked base looking at the base of the scalp or an infestation can be marked by tiny red spots. It can be caused by close hair to hair contact as they can walk from one hair strained to the other.

NON-CONTAGIOUS HAIR DISEASES:


ALOPECIA (HAIR LOSS):
What is Alopecia (hair Loss)?- It is a general term for hair loss and it causes patches of baldness about the size of  large coin. Not only can it occur on the scalp but on any part of the body with hair it is mainly found in teenagers and young adults. In most cases the hair can grow back but more fine/white then return to its natural colour later on but sometime it can develop a more severe form of hair loss e.g. alopecia totalis (no scalp hair) or alopecia universalis (no hair on the scalp and body).  

DANDRUFF:
What is Dandruff?- It is a common skin condition that causes flakes of dead skin to appear on the scalp or hair. The causes of dandruff is the body continually shedding dead skin cells as the new cells are formed, it mainly can be un-noticed. However, the process can speed up, producing excessive amounts of dead skin cells which equals to dandruff happening.

CONTAGIOUS SKIN DISEASES:


SCABIES:
What is Scabies?- It is a contagious skin condition that is caused by small mites burrowing into the skin, they feed using their mouths and front legs to burrow into the outer layer of the skin where they lay their eggs. After three/four days they can hatch and move into the surface of the skin and they like warm places e.g. between the fingers, skin folds etc. The main symptom to watch out for in scabies is intense itching (which can increase at night) and lots of skin rashes where they burrow.   

IMPETIGO:
What is Impetigo?- Its is a highly contagious skin infection that cause sores and blisters to the skin. The disease is caused by bacteria infecting the outer layers of skin which can happen in two ways e.g. it can infect the skin through cuts, insect bites or other injury and also through other skin damaged such as scabies or eczema. It may also leave behind red marks when the crust has cleared up, however can clear up over weeks.


NON-CONTAGIOUS SKIN DISEASES:


ACNE:
What is Acne?- It is a very common skin condition that affects a lot of people and is the cause of spots to develop onto the skin. The spots can range from blackheads, whiteheads which are very mild but on the other hand they can become deep, inflamed, pus-filled and cysts which can be scarring/long-lasting.


URTICARIA (HIVES):
What is Urticaria (Hives)?- It is a raised, itchy rash that appears on the skin, the rash can found on any part of the body. The affected area of skin will usually settle within a couple of days therefore is known as acute Urticaria but the rash can sometimes persist or come and go within six weeks, often over year then this is known as chronic Urticaria.  


By Amelia Richmond-Knight